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Like rock ’n’ roll, today’s food culture comes complete with superstar performers, fabled venues and festivals, vast media coverage, breathless critics, big money, and a tower of books. Notable among the authors of such books is Michael Pollan, whose The Omnivore’s Dilemma was a best-seller in 2006 and whose latest, In Defense of Food, is now far up on the charts. In The Omnivore’s Dilemma, Pollan assumed the seemingly neutral pose of a naturalist to tell a tale of four meals. First and worst was a take-out meal from McDonald’s, consumed in the car by Pollan, his wife, and their son as they cruised through Marin County north of San Francisco. Next was a chicken dinner prepared with ingredients purchased at an upscale Whole Foods market. In the third meal, the ingredients came from a grass-based, “sustainable” farm in Virginia, while the fourth, at the apex of Pollan’s ascending order, was made from items mostly gathered or killed by the omnivorous Pollan himself.

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